Restaurant Review: Ampersand 27

AMPERSAND 27

10612 82nd Avenue ~ ampersand27.com Instagram: @ampersand27yeg ~ Twitter: @ampersand27yeg Co-Diner: Tim Golem

Ampersand 27 (also known as &27) is an upper mid-range restaurant located right in the heart of the action in Old Strathcona. I've seen this location change hands (and businesses) a few times but Ampersand has been holding strong for the last six years. They're a hotel restaurant found in the Varscona Hotel, which surely comes along with its own unique challenges. When I heard that VUE Weekly had awarded them the #1 Best Charcuterie Board/Plate 2018 I was very interested in giving them a try. I visited on a Saturday evening and it's difficult not to be impressed upon entering the expansive space. The restaurant is very large with several different dining areas and gorgeous décor. From soaring ceilings adorned with stunningly modern flight fixtures, to pops of teal and rock, to beautifully rustic touches like twinkling twigs and an entire tree trunk in the middle of the room, no element has been overlooked. We were seated near the roaring fireplace, which was perfectly ideal on an exceedingly chilly fall day. Our server was very helpful and friendly, prompt in taking our order, and delivered food and drinks in a timely fashion. In the mood for a cocktail (the atmosphere demands one!) I was pleased to see an interesting list to select from. However, I had to try the Pumpkin Tykva ($14.00) given the season. (By the way, the word tykva is Russian for "pumpkin." So yes, this drink is essentially called a "pumpkin pumpkin.")

Espresso vodka, Kahlua, pumpkin spice creamer.

I loved this! This drink tasted like a pumpkin spice latte in boozy beverage form - and if that isn't what you want at this time of year... I mean, it's what I want. The drink was sweet, tasted like pumpkin, and I especially enjoyed the cinnamon around the rim. Simple and creamy, I was very happy with this beverage and wanted to curl up by the fire with it. Since Ampersand's highest accolade is for their charcuterie board, I naturally decided to invest the majority of my interests there. The menu used to feature a board that included two meats, two cheeses, pickles, olives, preserves, mustard, and flatbread for $25, all chosen by the chef. This is what I had hoped to order. However on our visit we were informed that they had changed the charcuterie board system that day and now the customers were required to build their own board from a list of options. While I somewhat enjoy the idea of getting to choose everything to my exact specifications, I actually believe that I prefer having the chef create the board for me, taking the "work" out of my hands. I compiled my board. From the Charcuterie section there were five choices and I selected Genoa Salami ($6.00) and Housemade Salmon Pate ($7.00). (The word "charcuterie" refers to the meat, specifically.) From the Cheese section there were five choices and I selected Double Cream Brie ($6.25) and Smoked Gouda ($6.00). From the Pickles, Etc. section there were four choices and I selected Chili Olives ($3.50). From the Spreads section there were three choices and I selected Strawberry Balsamic Jam ($2.50). And lastly, from the Fresh Bread section there were two choices and I selected Full Garlic Parmesan Flatbread ($4.00). The total cost of the board came to $35.25. It was more expensive than the old system and I think that I was actually getting less things??

I'm always impressed when a board of delicious meats and cheeses gets set down in front of me. It might very well be one of my favourite things. I love the idea of grazing over the selection of items and tasting different little things here and there. This board certainly offered that experience and there were many aspects that I enjoyed about it. I liked that the salami was shaved paper-thin, making it easy to pile into delicious heaps. The salmon pate was quite good, maybe even better than I expected, adding a different flavour twist to the board. The smoked gouda was very creamy, delicious and full of flavour. I liked the garlicky flatbread that worked as a great base for everything. All in all, I liked this board because everything on it tasted good... Although I couldn't help but notice that there wasn't anything inherently special about it either. None of the ingredients were all that high-end and I'm sure that I could buy each item at a regular grocery store. For the price, I was expecting a board that was more "exclusive," in a sense. To add some greens to the meal, we also ordered the Sundried Tomato Caesar ($9.00 for small).

Creamy anchovy sundried tomato dressing, croutons, crispy prosciutto, fried capers, grated Grana Padano, romaine hearts.

This salad was good. I was immediately drawn to the fact that they are using real anchovies in the dressing, which is a key component to a good (and real) caesar salad for me. The execution of all of the flavours and textures was pleasing. The crispy prosciutto and fried capers were some of the best parts, adding a salty crunch respectively. I loved the use of Grana Padano over a typical parmesan. This was a lovely salad and if anything, I could have used for the dressing to be even heavier. Lastly, I couldn't miss the Tempura Cauliflower ($14.00).

Miso & apricot glazed tempura cauliflower, sweet soy dip.

I'm glad that I didn't miss it because this was the best dish of the meal! This cauliflower was incredibly satisfying. The outer coating, fried to perfection, had just the right amount of bite to it and the cauliflower on the inside was tender and perfectly cooked. I loved the spicy kick from the sauce drizzled on top and the soy was delicious to dip into. The desired spicy-sweet effect was certainly achieved. I could eat these all day! This plate wins! Part of me wonders if the stunning décor and atmosphere of the restaurant is a bit deceiving, being much nicer than the food itself. However, Ampersand 27 prides themselves on offering a great share-plate experience and I think that they do this very well. Sometimes tapas-style restaurants can be challenging because the portion sizes tend to be small while the prices are high. Not so at Ampersand, as the servings were generous and the prices were quite reasonable. (Except for the cost of the charcuterie and cheese board. In that case, I didn't find the value to be all that good.) In this way, I found them to be a general success. They serve brunch and I would like to try it, especially for their "Brunchuterie." It's a nice spot on Whyte Ave and I would be willing to explore them further.