Restaurant Review: Coliseum Steak & Pizza

COLISEUM STEAK & PIZZA

8015 118th Avenue | coliseumsteak.com

Instagram: @coliseumsteak

Co-Diners: The E.A.T Crew

There are long-standing mainstay type of restaurants and then there's Edmonton's beloved Coliseum Steak & Pizza. Open since 1976 and named after the Coliseum arena in which the Oilers played from 1974-2016 (and located a mere six blocks away), it's easy to imagine the deep roots that this restaurant shares with its community. Every part 70s steakhouse, not much has changed in nearly 50 years. The restaurant still serves as a gathering place for hockey enthusiasts and the players themselves are still known to dine there, as they always have. But there's more going on here than just sports. Edmonton Journal named Coliseum S&P Best Overall Restaurant 2023, proving that the legend lives on through the generations. I'd only ever visited once before, many years ago, and as I made my way over to 118th Ave in the Parkdale area I was reminded of what this part of the city used to symbolize. The Avenue of Champions. The Edmonton Oilers did win five almost-consecutive Stanley Cups in the 1980s, after all. And there Coliseum Steak & Pizza was, in the heart of it all. I can almost feel what that energy must have been like and it still lives within the walls of the restaurant. Their lit-up signage shines down the avenue like a beacon. I arrived early on a Saturday evening, around 5pm, and the place was packed. And it remained packed. It only got more packed. Everyone seems to know something and it's time that I did too. Walking into the space, the walls are steeped in hockey lore and the servers are seasoned and friendly. You certainly get the sense that much of the decor has been untouched since the 70s, and frankly I wouldn't have it any other way. There is honey-hued wood for as far as the eye can see, carpet on the floor, and archways that probably seemed very fancy at the time of their construction. There's also a mural of the actual Colosseum in Rome. The dining room is quite large and they always seem to have room for more. And of course there's a big screen at one end of the room because they wouldn't want you to miss the game. (Honestly, this has gotta be the best place to watch hockey other than the arena itself.) Once settled in I was surprised to find a rather large drink menu full of cocktails. On second thought; the 70s loves a cocktail. I ordered a Coliseum Sangria ($9.95) because anything with the restaurant's name in it is probably a solid bet. (This was about to become a theme.)

Red wine, cherry brandy, orange and cranberry juices with a splash of 7-Up.

This beverage was very big and very dangerous because it tased like juice. I loved it! It was almost like a shirley temple, except for grown ups with some alcohol in the mix. I might have enjoyed this more than I should have but it was really delicious and easy to drink. I do have questions about the Coliseum Special Coffee and what's in Uncle Peter’s secret blend of liqueurs... The food menu is pretty big and of course there's a lot of steak and pizza on it. There are also things like burgers and a surprising amount of seafood. It's definitely not pub food but it's likely what pub food wishes it could be. Once the food was ordered it took almost no time at all before a chorus of plates arrived at the table. One of the meals that we ordered came with a garden salad which we upgraded to a starter Caesar Salad for an additional $4.95 and this arrived first.

Romaine, parmesan, seasoned croutons, and bacon bits, tossed in our famous, homemade caesar dressing.

A caesar salad in a steakhouse just feels like the right thing to do and it was love at first bite! What seemed like a fairly standard salad was made better by the fact that I could taste that their dressing truly was homemade and done the real way. The flavour from the anchovies was present, adding their saltiness. The bacon bits were actual real bacon. The croutons tasted fresh and housemade. No corners were cut and it makes all the difference. What could've been a pretty standard salad was made so much better by simply making it right. I also really enjoyed the small chop of the romaine lettuce which made the salad easy to eat and share. I think that this is the best casear salad in the city.

As an appetizer of sorts I was intrigued by their "loaves" which I assumed was something like a sandwich? It was time to find out by way of the Coliseum Loaf ($13.95).

Pepperoni, salami, ham, onion, tomato sauce, and mozzarella, all baked in a sesame roll.

Not that I assumed otherwise, but this loaf was such a hit. Everyone at my table agreed that it was the biggest surprise of the meal. Every ingredient is perfection and works so well with the next. The trio of meats are flavourful and piled high, the crunchy onion (which I don't typically like) added such a welcome element to the sandwich, the cheese was melty and gooey, and I absolutely loved the soft yet crusty sesame bread. It's kind of like a pizza sub but better. They've really nailed it with the Coliseum Loaf and I think that they know it. Next we figured that we should probably order a pizza since "pizza" is right in the restaurant's name. They have 23 gourmet pizza creations to choose from, all available in three sizes (and the large size is cut into squares!! IYKYK). Topping the list is the Coliseum Special Pizza ($16.95 for nooner size) and that seemed like the obvious choice.

Pepperoni, salami, ham, mushrooms, green pepper, olives, shrimp, onion, our special tomato sauce, covered with mozzarella.

Coliseum S&P boasts that they have been making the same dough and the same sauce homemade since day one. I think that's the difference and what makes their food so good - they have not wavered in quality or in the heart that they put into what they make. They're almost like a time capsule from a bygone era. As soon as I saw the pizza, I understood why people like it. It's prairie-style pizza - the type that is heaped with toppings and smothered in cheese. I really enjoyed the curveball of tossing some shrimp on this pizza, something that you don't often see. Again, the meats were piled high and the vegetables were bright and fresh. The crust was baked to a golden perfection and had an ideal, classic flavour. While I liked this pizza a lot, I think that I'd still say that Royal Pizza reigns supreme for pizza of this style. Finally, you know that I couldn't come to a 70s steakhouse without ordering steak. All of Coliseum's steaks are AAA Alberta beef and fresh cut daily in-house. I don't know if you've heard, but beef is kind of a big deal in this province. I had to try the House Special ($31.95) because it's special and because it let us try a bit of everything.

8oz top sirloin served with spaghetti and meat sauce, garlic toast and soup or garden salad.

This dish certainly encompasses Coliseum Steak & Pizza on one plate. I ordered the steak medium-rare (the only way to do so) and it arrived cooked to an absolute perfection. No notes. The meat was thick-cut, incredibly tender and I could really taste the flame-grilled flavour. (In fact, if you watch the kitchen for a while you'll see the flames!) This is easily one of the best steaks that I've had in Edmonton and I didn't even need to go to a high-end steakhouse to get it. Beef is prized in our province and Coliseum S&P is a great place to experience it. I also loved the spaghetti that was completely covered in delicious homemade meat sauce. It tasted like something that someone's grandma made. And who doesn't love a slice of garlic toast to sop up the sauce? I was really impressed with this dish because it seems so simple but feels like home. There's even lobster on the menu if you want to get extra fancy and the battered shrimp are something that I must order next time. If I wasn't won over already, I was sold when I saw a server coming around with garnishes to dress a baked potato table-side. That was it. You got me. If you're looking for some entertainment you should definitely check out the "Frequently Asked Questions" section of the restaurant's website. It's very funny. As an Edmontonian, Coliseum Steak & Pizza feels important. It's a part of the city's history and it tells the story of how far we've come while embracing a beautiful past. There's plenty of hockey vibe (if you're into that) and there's plenty of 70s vibe (if you're into that). Most of all, the food is exceptionally solid, the prices are reasonable, and the space is unpretentious. I look forward to seeing Coliseum Steak & Pizza around for another 50 years.